My work process is mostly identical. First I look for reference material, such as images or low poly 3D models which I extract directly from the game’s files. However these files aren’t usable for the printing process, which is why I create my models completely from scratch, giving me further control over each detail.
Afterwards I open the exported STL files with Cura, Ultimaker’s built-in slicing software. There I can pre-visualize how each layer of the model will be printed, which highlights problematic areas, which I then have to modify back in my 3D software. However a lot of details show up only after holding a test print in my hands.
Following this it’s back again to the 3D program for further model optimization: Enhancing certain details or getting rid of problematic parts unnecessary to the overall design. It’s a loop of rapid-prototyping the design and improving it accordingly until I receive a finished miniature.
I am currently busy recreating the complete set of buildings and vehicles from the classic RTS game „Command & Conquer: Tiberian Dawn“. All of my work is modeled from scratch and optimized for the 3D printing process. My designs are inspired by either the awesome work of the developers from Totem Arts, the creators of Renegade X, or directly by the original game itself. Therefore I search old manuals, cutscenes or marketing materials to create my miniatures as close as possible to those classic designs from 1995. My goal is to create models that can be printed without the use of support structures, because removing these from a print always results in an unclean surface. Deviding the model into different parts, printing them seperately and glueing them back together is one way to achieve a flawless finish.
When I bought it, the Ultimaker 2+ was around 2.300€. But the prices are constantly dropping. So it might be a couple of hundred bucks cheaper by now.
That’s the material the printer gets loaded with to print the miniatures. Imagine a cable drum, but instead of electronic cables there’s a long strain of plastic on it. The drum gets attached at the backside of the printer. A gear grabs the material and pulls it in. When it reaches the hot end, the printer heats it up until it melts. Now the molten plastic can be printed layer by layer. Fun fact: The material is biodegradable.
Because I’m a nerd. That’s how we roll.
Totally. I already made one of the space ships from No Man’s Sky for a friend of mine. I also plan on doing stuff from Skyrim, FTL (Faster than Light), Sonic the Hedgehog or the S.T.A.L.K.E.R. series.
Yes, indeed. I already bought a pretty good airbrush set, complete with compressor, different colors etc. Now I just need to do it.
I am thinking about it. I would love to set up a shop and sell my miniatures, since people keep telling me, they look amazing and they want some. But since I don’t own the rights to the IP Command & Conquer, I need to ask Electronic Arts for permission first.
Just send me an eMail using the form above and I will keep you up to date when I got some news about that topic.
That depends on its size and complexity. Smaller ones are done in a couple of hours or an evening. But bigger ones require sometimes several days.
Yes, I think Tiberian Sun is the next on my list. Just imagine a 3D printed Mammoth MK II or a Titan! And I guess a Kirov Airship from Red Alert 2 would look awesome as well!
Canon EOS 550D. A good piece of hardware.
Do you mean an African or European swallow?